For two seasons I have had success with this space-saving idea.  I set my tomato cages where they will be when the tomatoes are set out and stake them down with tent pegs.

   Then, on the NORTHERN HALF of the cages' perimeter I plant sugar snap peas.  The first year I planted the silver lace variety which has fewer leaves and more tendrils, but last year I tried both the silver lace and a regular Super Sugar Snap.  Both grew well, climbed the wire cages on the north half, never interfered with the sun on the tomatoes, and were pulled out long before the tomatoes actually shaded them!  I thought myself quite clever.

Stella Schneider

    We save all our eggshells to recycle in the garden.  After drying, and crushing, we spade them into the soil where they replenish calcium without costing us a dime!  This helps prevent calcium deficiency problems like "blossom end rot" in tomatoes. 

Anonymous

When my tomato plants are about 18" high, I remove the lower branches and place a "collar" on top of the ground around each plant.  The collar consists of half of a clean 5-gallon plastic bucket, open on both ends and split down one side. I wire it close to the stake supporting the tomato plant.  Then, I fill this with well-rotted compost which has a handful of Bone Meal mixed in. This accomplishes several things, all of which are good.  The stem of the tomato plant grows extra roots into this compost, making for a much stronger, drought-resistant plant.  The extra roots inside this collar won't become waterlogged by a heavy rain either, as the collar is on top of the ground and it drains rapidly.  In late spring and early summer, the compost inside the collar stays warmer than the soil below ground level - so each tomato plant grows quicker and larger.  Best of all, the extra nutrients from the compost and Bone Meal helps each plant to bear a BIG crop of tomatoes!

Sam Wammack

   We live in the Northernmost part of Wisconsin and the springtime has a tendency to be cold at night and hot in the daytime. To protect newly planted tomato plants, I use brown grocery bags. After planting the tomato plant, I snip off the bottom of the bag and put the tomato cage through the bag and into the ground around the tomato. This protects the tomato from frost at night and the hot sun in the daytime, but still allows it to get the light it needs through the bag opening. After about 1-2 weeks, just rip the bag from the tomato cage. I work full time and do not have much time for gardening.  This seemed to be the easiest no care method I could come up with.

Julie Sigafus

I always get a couple of tomato plants in the ground 3 to 4 weeks before the normal planting time. I coddle these plants through the early season in order to get early tomatoes, before anyone else. A couple of weeks before planting, I lay plastic on the ground and bury the edges under the soil so it doesn't blow away. This helps warm the soil so the tomatoes will not sit and sulk when I plant them. When I go to plant, I just cut a hole in the plastic during the chilly nights. It would be a lot of work for many tomato plants, but it's worth doing for a couple of plants just to get early tomatoes.

Micheal Gravel

I just wanted everyone to know when you are transplanting tomato plants, put 2 tablespoons of epsom salt down into the hole and water, then plant the tomato and the plant will grow like a wildfire!!! It's an old gardeners trick.

Beverly McConnell

When it's hot outside, there's no need to give up on your greens! Plant spinach, lettuce and radishes under tomato plants and other tall vegetables. The salad greens are protected from the hot summer sun by the dappled shade of the tomatoes, while providing a living mulch to keep the ground around the tomatoes moist and weed free. Last year, we harvested fresh lettuce and spinach all year long.

Heather Hadley

Start your tomatoes very early, 8-12 weeks before planting out. Plant the seedlings in 2" of high quality seed starter mix. Use tall, such as 6 inch deep, round or square pots with drainage holes. Only add 2 inches of the mix to the pot and plant the seed.  Adjust the lights to be within 6 inches of the soil surface. As the seedlings grow, every time they get an inch or two taller, pinch off the bottom leaves (always leave at least 4 leaves), add soil to just below the leaves and raise the lights, always keeping them close (6 inches) to the seedlings. Fertilize appropriately while in pots. By planting out time, you will have tall plants with a strong root system, probably already in blossom. Good lighting is the key to making this work--without it, seedlings will be too leggy and not vigorous.

Brenda Searle

   My best friend, in the garden is black plastic. I use 3 foot wide for the walkways and cover with hay. This keeps me from sinking in the mud and best of all no weeds.  The plastic can also be used to warm the soil around tomatoes and peppers. It also gives us a head start next year on a new section I plan to till. The plastic is laid over the grass and covered with hay. This year I will let my melons grow out over this (no weeds in the vines) and by the fall all the grass underneath will be dead. After tilling I will plant a green manure for next spring. I reuse the plastic year after year.

Abby Lewellen